When you start looking, you’ll notice something known as lab-grown diamond colour grades. This runs from D, the highest grade for a colourless diamond, through to Z, where a yellow or brown tint can be much easier to see.
A lot of our clients naturally assume that the closer to D, the better. However, that isn’t always the grade that we’d recommend here at Hatton Garden Diamond, even when complete brilliance is the goal. After all, some differences between colour grades are incredibly difficult to see once the diamond is in place, which means that you could end up paying more for something that you barely notice.
We’re asked a lot about lab-grown diamond colours; their clarity, longevity, popularity and value for money. To answer some of the most common questions, we’ve created the below article, which covers what the different lab-grown diamond colour grades actually look like and where we think it’s worth spending your budget, so that you can be fully ‘in the know’ before you purchase.
What Are the Lab-Grown Diamond Colour Grades?
When we talk about a diamond’s colour, we’re actually looking at how little colour it has. Most white lab-grown diamonds aren’t perfectly colourless; some have very subtle yellow or brown tones and it’s actually the colour grade which tells us how noticeable those tones are.
Lab-grown diamonds are graded on exactly the same D-Z scale as mined diamonds. D is completely colourless, then you move through E, F and onwards as more warmth begins to appear in the stone.
If you’re wondering why the scale starts at D, there’s a good reason. When the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) created its grading system, A, B and C were already being used inconsistently within the diamond trade. Starting at D gave everyone a new, standardised scale to work from:
D-F: Colourless | Little to no noticeable colour
G-J: Near colourless | Increasing warmth as you move down the scale
K-M: Faint | A warmer tone that becomes more noticeable
N-R: Very light | Yellow or brown tones are more apparent
S-Z: Light | Clearly noticeable colour
Why Aren’t All Lab-Grown Diamonds Colourless?
If lab-grown diamonds are created under controlled conditions, surely you can just make every diamond perfectly colourless? This makes sense in theory, but it isn’t quite that simple. Even a lab-grown diamond still has to grow as a crystal, with tiny variations during that process affecting the finished stone. Trace amounts of elements, such as nitrogen, could influence its colour, as can changes within the diamond’s crystal structure.
It’s important to note though, that diamond growers have a great deal of control over the process and treatments can sometimes be used after growth to improve colour. However, you can’t simply order a ‘batch’ of D-colour loose diamonds; each finished diamond still needs to be assessed and given its own colour grade.
Coloured diamonds are slightly different. Pink, blue and other coloured stones are created specifically for their colour, so they’re graded according to the strength and quality of that colour rather than how close they are to colourless.
Can You See the Difference Between Lab-Grown Diamond Colour Grades?
We can put two diamonds side by side and the difference is so slight that you’d struggle to tell us which has the higher grade. Lab-grown diamonds are colour graded loose, under controlled conditions and viewed in a very particular way, whereas you’ll see it face-up, catching the light and surrounded by the metal of your piece of jewellery.
The further apart you move on the colour scale, the easier that warmth becomes to spot. Size and shape make a difference too, which is why we wouldn’t judge a diamond from the letter on its grading report alone.
If you’re choosing between two lab-grown diamonds, look at them together and ask yourself whether you can actually see enough of a difference to prefer one. If you can’t, then paying more for the higher colour grade doesn’t give you much in return.
D, E or F: When Is a Colourless Lab-Grown Diamond Worth It?
D, E and F are the colourless grades, so if you love that bright, icy-white look, this is where you’ll start. D sits right at the top of the scale, although if we showed you a D and an F of similar quality without telling you which was which, you’d have a hard time picking out the D. Once they’re set into a wedding ring, for example, that difference becomes even harder to see.
D-F is worth considering with a larger lab-grown diamond or a platinum or white gold setting, particularly if you want everything to look as crisp and cool-toned as possible. You may also simply like knowing that you’ve chosen one of the highest colour grades; there’s nothing wrong with that!
If you’re working to a budget, though, an E or an F which looks every bit as beautiful to you, could leave more to spend somewhere that makes a much bigger difference to the finished ring.
G, H, I or J
G-J lab-grown diamonds are classed as near colourless and, depending on the stone, you can get remarkably close to the appearance of a colourless diamond without paying for a D-F grade.
To the naked eye, you may see very little difference once the diamond is in its setting. If that’s the case, we’d question whether moving up the scale is really where you want to spend your budget.
With I and J, you’re more likely to start seeing some warmth, especially in certain shapes or larger stones. That doesn’t make them poor choices though, and in the right setting, a little warmth can look truly lovely. The saving might allow you to choose the larger diamond that you had your eye on.
This is why we don’t think of near-colourless lab-grown diamonds as the ‘compromise’ option. Sometimes, they’re simply the right decision for what you’re searching for.
Does the Metal Affect Which Colour Grade You Should Choose?
At Hatton Garden Diamond we never really look at the colour of a lab-grown diamond without thinking about the metal that will sit around it. Platinum and white gold give you a cool, bright backdrop; put a warmer diamond against either of them and you may notice its colour more, so we might suggest looking slightly higher up the colour scale if you want a really crisp, white finish.
Yellow or rose gold gives you more flexibility. A little warmth in the diamond tends to sit naturally alongside a warmer metal, which means that you may be perfectly happy dropping down a colour grade and spending the difference elsewhere.
There’s another little trick we often use too. If you love yellow gold but want the centre diamond to appear as white as possible, we can set it with white gold or platinum claws. You still get the yellow gold band that you wanted, with a cooler-toned metal immediately around the stone.
Does Diamond Shape Affect How Much Colour You Can See?
Round lab-grown diamonds are very good at hiding a little warmth because there’s so much light bouncing around inside the stone. With shapes such as ovals and pears, you can sometimes see colour gathering towards the ends, so we may look at a slightly higher grade if keeping the diamond looking white is important to you alongside a more unique shape.
Emerald and cushion cuts need a closer look too, as their long, open facets don’t leave much room to hide any imperfections as well, unlike than the busier sparkle that you get from a round cut.
Size comes into it as well; the larger the lab-grown diamond, the more opportunity there is to notice its colour. If you’re considering a three-carat oval, for example, we’d assess colour quite differently than we would for a one-carat round brilliant. However, at Hatton Harden Diamond our team can compare several grades in the shapes and sizes that you like, to see where you stop noticing enough of a difference to justify spending more.
Find the Right Lab-Grown Diamond in Hatton Garden
Choosing a colour grade is much easier once you can see it, rather than just read about it. Pop into our showroom at 13 Hatton Garden and we’ll talk you through the options for your chosen shape and setting; making sure that your budget goes towards features that you’ll actually notice.
Prefer to plan ahead? Book an appointment and we’ll have a selection ready for you to compare when you arrive.